Word: steak
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...real party will be downtown, where hundreds of national media have snapped up reservations at Des Moines' best restaurants. Want to dine at Lucca, an East Village hotspot, or swanky 801 Steak House? You'll have to elbow out New York Times and New Yorker reporters, along with the guests of two TV networks that have arranged for private seating. For the hundreds of less moneyed reporters in town for the holiday, Carrie Giddins, the spokeswoman for the Iowa Democratic Party, and Mary Tiffany, her GOP counterpart, have joined forces to throw "Raucous Before the Caucus," a big bash with...
...Hattori, president of Tokyo-based Hattori Nutrition College and a leading food critic who admits a weakness for whale. Better known as "Doc" to Iron Chef fans, Hattori prefers a recipe from the Showa period (that is, the 1926-1989 reign of Emperor Hirohito). He says a "roast cut" steak is best prepared after a good marinating in grated white onion, which tenderizes the meat, and then pan-fried with a little soy sauce. Hattori says that the price of the most prized part of the whale - the tail meat - is on par with that of Kobe beef, roughly...
This brings us to another supermarket paradox: moist raw meat means dry, tasteless steak. Fresh is certainly not best. Beef has to be hung to lose excess water, develop complex flavor, and break down tough fibers, but for how long? Experts disagree, sometimes violently. With all due respect to Zaldúa, two weeks is not enough for full-on flavor. Nor does youth yield tenderness. After encountering a steak at Etxebarri in Axpe from an old retired dairy cow as tender as a veal calf and infinitely more flavorful, I was also ready to challenge the received wisdom that...
...cooked piece after piece on earthenware platters sprinkled with salt. We gorged ourselves on the deep, primordial flavor of beef as it was meant to be, full of days spent in the goodness of open fields. Somehow in the cholesterol-induced euphoria, my brain noted that the perfect steak seemed to be in the center rib section, aged for 90 days, of a 16-year-old Rubia Gallega...
...campaign rallies, they're the head cheerleaders, whipping up enthusiasm in the crowd. At a multi-candidate steak fry, straw poll or debate, they're the ground troops fighting the "sign wars" - a surprisingly intense competition to put up the most campaign placards...