Word: mello
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Many of Armani's things for women are too unusual and finely detailed-and thus too expensive-to knock off, but his jackets have been endlessly copied. "You can copy the look," cautions Dawn Mello, executive vice president of Bergdorf Goodman, "but you can never copy the fit." Indeed, Mello's description of wearing an Armani suit goes past simple enthusiasm or even shrewd salesmanship; it sounds like a recollection of a heavy first date. "Armani really put women in suits," she says. "He emancipated them, in a way. A man expects his suits to be very well...
...attention and a bit of international interest. Fred Pressman of Barney's recalls working with Armani in "an office no bigger than 14 by 14," crowded with one huge table and a few cane chairs used for everything from long business conferences to quick lunches. Bergdorf's Mello remembers "buying a collection of Armani's under a bare light bulb in a tiny hotel room. We could hardly see the colors, so he took the lamp shade off." In 1975, when the Giorgio Armani Co. was founded, it had a working capital...
...owner of two stores in Boston and Worcester, Mass., claims: "The customer wants one incredible piece. This will become a piece from the '80s, the way a Bauhaus or Corbusier was a piece from the 1930s." On the other hand, most leatherwise observers will also agree with Dawn Mello, executive vice president of Bergdorf Goodman: "The thing a woman wants to own now is something in leather, just as she had to have jeans when blue jeans were new and fit just perfectly. But there's more. A woman wants leather because of the quality factor...
...Ruttenstein, fashion director at Bloomingdale's, observes: "Norma Kamali took an obvious American idiom and made it sophisticated fashion. The woman who used to wear a suit and blouse now wears her sweats." And Bergdorf Goodman's Executive Vice President Dawn Mello proclaims: "Norma is queen of the sweatshirt. It's like when jeans started. Norma is the new Levi Strauss...
Coca-Cola may have Mello Yello, but South House has the Orange Crush. The SoHo hordes controlled the line of scrimmage throughout the second game of yesterday's House football doubleheader, limiting Dunster-Mather to four first downs while rushing for more than five yards per carry on offense en route to a 12-0 victory over the Dunsters yesterday afternoon at Soldiers Field...