Word: mello
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Gucci's new look is very much the vision of Dawn Mello, 52, who signed on as creative director last year. Formerly the president of New York City's upscale Bergdorf Goodman department store, the tall and elegant Mello set out to rebuild the image of the 68-year-old company by drawing on its successful past. "Gucci should be classic, but with an edge," she says. "It should not be boring...
...Hence, Mello's concept of a Gucci for the '90s takes many cues from bygone decades. A $565 hobo bag, which had not been manufactured since 1975, has been revived and is now one of the two top Gucci offerings in U.S. stores. The other is a roomy, bamboo-handle leather bag, created in 1957. The updated version, which is enlarged and comes with a leather shoulder strap, is offered in calfskin leather ($895) and crocodile...
...Mello finds inspiration in unlikely places. While she was eating dinner one night in a Florence restaurant, a man Mello had never met before showed her a worn-out pigskin Gucci briefcase that he had held on to for 25 years. Gucci no longer sold the case, he told her. Would they consider bringing it back? Mello admired the case, and Gucci will soon manufacture it. "We'd always been known for our briefcases," says Mello. "We want to have that name again...
Financial pressures have led many developing nations to continue shortsighted policies that squander natural resources. In Brazil the appointment by President Fernando Collor de Mello of outspoken conservationist Jose Lutzenberger as Secretary of the Environment raised hopes that the burning of the Amazon rain forest would be halted. But environmentalists are still waiting for Collor to prove that his commitment to saving the Amazon is more than public relations. "Lutzenberger has not presented one significant change in internal policy," says Fabio Feldmann, the only Brazilian congressman elected on a green platform...
When describing his radical plan to reform Brazil's out-of-control economy, President Fernando Collor de Mello used to state his goal by quoting Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes: "To win -- or to win." But in recent months the supremely confident Collor, 41, has notched precious few victories. The inflation rate, after being cut from 80% a month to less than 10%, is back to 17%. Interest rates are sky-high; unemployment is rising. Last week Collor got more bad news. In runoff elections for 15 governorships, progovernment candidates lost in the biggest and most influential states, including Sao Paulo...