Word: fennell
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...Each dumpling is filled with pureed spiced butternut, then boiled and pan-fried. The dish is topped by a light, winey stew of shredded hare and onion. The appetizer special--port-glazed salmon ($8.00)--arrives char-grilled on a bed of lightly dressed greens, marinated slices of crunchy fennel, and a generous serving of sauteed oyster mushrooms. The pierogi is rich and creamy, the salmon light and crisp. Once again hearkening back to Eastern Europe are the healthy appetizer portion sizes. Unlike many restaurants of its caliber, Salts doesn't see its dishes as minimalist works...
...were large, innovative and delicious. Once the mystery behind "Salmon Ukka as a Dinner" ($18.50) is unraveled, it seems irresistable. A filet of fresh salmon, seared and encrusted with fresh ground pepper, is served floating in a delicate vegetable broth brimming with bite-size chunks of carrot, celery, fennel (a popular ingredient at Salts) and tender potato balls. The combination is neither nouveu Americain nor specifically Eastern European but rather a unique invention...
...chains get-up would definitely stand out as inappropriate. If you want to give your taste buds an orgasmic experience (great way to impress a first date), Chez Henri is a perfect place to take refuge and put yourself at the mercy of the food. Order the Monkfish with Fennel Puree, Shallot Jus and Chanterelles ($16.95). The capers melt in your mouth, the fish is white and tender and the accompanying mashed potatoes are completely integrated into the whole eating experience. Some restaurants slap down an ice-cream scoop dollop of mushy tuber that screams, "Here, you want starch...
...invented Murray's: as a child, reading the words SILVER BUTTER KNIFE STEAK FOR TWO off billboards, meditating on them, I had created a kingdom of elegance more durable than any restaurant where an immaculate young waiter introduces himself and tells you about the broiled marlin served in fennel mustard sauce on a bed of basmati rice and topped with shredded asiago cheese and lightly toasted pine nuts. I would never take out-of-towners to Murray's. Nobody whom I wanted to impress. Only my dearest friends. Only old Minnesota pals who grew up with Murrayism and know...
...main course, one of us had lemon papardelle pasta with grilled scallops and asparagus tips in orange fennel broth. The grilled seafood was excellent but sparing, while the fennel broth and pasta were light and enjoyable...