Word: branded
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Fendi CEO Michael Burke faced a similar dilemma when he took over the Roman-based brand in 2004. With a mandate from LVMH boss Bernard Arnault to turn the company around, Burke had to find a way to keep designer Karl Lagerfeld in the fold and also massage a better relationship between the designer and Silvia Venturini Fendi, the talent behind Fendi's handbag business. That required yet another kind of nuclear power plant, one that Burke promptly set about creating in the form of Fendi's historic palazzo in the center of Rome, which he renovated in order...
Gucci designer Frida Giannini says the modern way of fashion marriage works. Gucci CEO Mark Lee chose Giannini for the job, and she says "we have an excellent working relationship. Like the double G of our brand, creativity and management work hand in hand with mutual respect...
...master is the brand, and the manager must do what it takes to serve it, including, in the case of Yves Carcelle at Louis Vuitton, nurturing a designer with some personal baggage. Marc Jacobs has two levels of business support: his long-term business partner, Robert Duffy, and Carcelle, who is credited with having helped Jacobs both personally and professionally, allowing him to expand his creative powers, which in turn contributes to astonishingly robust revenues at Louis Vuitton...
...Pilati. De Saint Pierre says fashion managers are hard to find because the job is paradoxical. "If management is a science that can be taught, fashion is about culture, so you need to have absorbed all the theory yet have totally surpassed it. Fashion management is about driving a brand with fast-changing products, yet it is also long-term artist management. Managers must be big-picture visionaries yet obsessed by detail. They need to be rational, tenacious, decisive leaders, yet also passionate moderators and not egoists...
...managers may hold the strings, but sometimes a designer snips them, as Phoebe Philo did at Chloé when she resigned last spring. Ralph Toledano concedes that although Chloé is currently a collective endeavor by Philo's design team, a brand needs a fashion face. And the chain reaction cannot happen unless all the elements are in place...