Word: aubert
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...clan. "We have rarely seen such quality in the grape," attests Jean Delmas, estate manager of Cháteau Haut-Brion, the fabled premier grand cru classe Bordeaux cháteau. As the picking drew to a close last week, some growers sounded like Verlaine of the vineyard. Said Aubert Gaudin de Villaine, co-owner of Burgundy's great Romanée-Conti vineyard: "These grapes could have been made in a sculptor's studio-small, round, even and tightly bunched, close around the heart." Their yield, most experts agree, will be vins de garde-wines...