Word: asparagus
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...Asparagus both raw and cooked with grapefruit, vanilla and saffron is a provocative, multidimensional entrée, and a sign from chef Mauro Colagreco that you are in for an extraordinary meal. The Argentina-born Italian - a Michelin star holder and voted 2009's newcomer of the year by the Gault Millau guide - eschews the molecular-style cooking that is becoming rather ubiquitous in fine dining and instead prefers earthy textures and light, simple ingredients, unexpectedly layered. (Watch TIME's video "Bocuse d'Or: Americans in a French Food Fight...
...went on Conan O'Brien's show and you had him tasting asparagus and sweaty socks to demonstrate the different tastes of wine; you went on Ellen and you were licking rocks. Was this actually stuff you did yourself? Yeah. When I was 17 or 18 I wanted to become a wine expert, and my parents wouldn't let me drink. So I was devastated. All I could do was read, and I read and I read. And I'd read something like, you know, "Subtle hints of cassis." And I'd be like, "What the f--- is cassis...
...make the old recipes sing again, Alléno and Terroirs d'Avenir found the last producers of many of Ile-de-France's traditional vegetables, spices and meats: l'aspèrge d'Argenteuil, a sublime variety of violet-tipped asparagus, today produced by a single family; champignons de Paris, the mushrooms first grown in Paris catacombs (but today more often imported from China); Gâtinais saffron, once considered the world's finest; Mereville watercress; Pontoise cabbage; and Meaux-brie cheese...
...Cheung Chau, which still supports a traditional fishing community. Also available are several signature dishes from his Hong Kong restaurant Shui Hu Ju, known for Chinese cuisine with a modern twist: crispy lamb ribs, clams in white wine and chili padi (a small fiery chili pepper), and young asparagus dipped in white sesame are among them. Admittedly Yeung can be a tad affected when it comes to styling: some dishes arrive served in wooden rice scoops and handwritten menus come on unwieldy hand-carved tablets Yeung picked up from old houses in Shanghai. Remixes of traditional Chinese songs fill...
...liquid centers and contrast hot and cold. There's sublime fresh-morel mille-feuille with warm, runny aged Parmesan, morel cream and tarragon, and Sisteron lamb with molten Banon cheese, sweet Cévennes onions, capers, black olives and rocket emulsion. Pic is intrigued by unusual smoked tastes too. Asparagus is lightly smoked over beech and served with an exquisite layer of Aquitaine caviar. Even more unconventionally, the subtle bitter roast of Blue Mountain coffee is an inspired partner to low-temperature-steamed turbot, butter whisked with Menton lemon and gossamer-thin ravioli made with turnip and a hint...