Word: spaccanapoli
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SATURDAY Coffee is almost as much of a religion as football in Naples. Kick-start the day with a soul-shaking espresso in Scaturchio, www.scaturchio.it, a legendary café in Spaccanapoli. With its derelict palaces and colorful washing lines, this quarter is the city's beating heart. Make your first stop the Museo Cappella Sansevero, www.museosansevero.it, home to The Veiled Christ by 18th century sculptor Giuseppe Sanmartino - a work famed for its spookily realistic drapes. Then fast-forward into the 21st century with a tour of Chiaia, Naples' superchic art and fashion district. A wave of contemporary art galleries, such...
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