Word: scenting
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...Circus is anxious to bury both the victim and his story. Ordinarily, the ultimate company man might agree. But behind homicide Smiley detects the ruthless spirit of Karla, his longtime adversary in Moscow. Publicly accepting the injunction of superiors, Smiley decides to do a little freelance investigation. On the scent from London to Germany he encounters a brilliant cast of characters from previous enterprises: Connie, the sapphic Soviet expert whom the Circus has dubbed Mother Russia; Oliver Lacon, the icy intelligence chief whose marital distress parallels Smiley's; the estranged Ann, still Mrs. Smi ley, and still destructive...
...dirty fingernails of a chronic tinkerer. As Pressler watches proudly, Hamilton pours fermented corn mash into his contraption, plugs in an electric cord, and begins adjusting valves. A tiny stream of alcohol squirts into a plastic bucket. The odor of the alcohol mingles in the room with the disquieting scent of dementia...
...France's traditionally subtle perfumes are under siege. Though the gentle Chanel No. 5 remains a bestseller, this fall's freshet of new scents was triggered by the success of Opium, which is sold under the Yves Saint Laurent label. It was so popular in Europe after its launching there in 1977 that its appearance in the U.S. had to be delayed a year for lack of supply. As it happens, Opium is marketed by a subsidiary of the Squibb Corp., the U.S. pharmaceutical firm, which pays the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house a royalty in return...
...Nahema today, Guerlain adds a prestigious page to this eternal dialogue." Then came an "intime" press dinner for 40 or so at Maxim's, followed on another evening by a glittering soiree near the Place de la Concorde, where 650 guests were plied with champagne as the new scent being introduced by the doyenne of French perfume houses filled...
What seems to concern the French as much as the spread of the American scent is the expansion of American ownership of perfume houses. Coty, for instance, is owned by the Pfizer pharmaceutical firm, Pierre Balmain by Revlon, and Jean d'Albret by Max Factor. Globally, sales of U.S.-owned perfume firms exceeded $1 billion last year, compared with $737 million for the French. Girding themselves against further U.S. competition, many older French perfume houses have sought mergers with larger European corporations, and a long moribund national perfume-promoting organization called Prestige has been revived. Says Bernard Lanvin, head...