Word: ricotta
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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HIGHEST-PRICED PASTA The single most expensive pasta extant is the soft egg raviolo (the singular of ravioli) that is a $36 hot ticket at San Domenico, the best new Italian restaurant to open in Manhattan in the past five years. The large silky square of pasta enfolds spinach, ricotta cheese and a whole egg yolk that poaches as the raviolo cooks. But the reason for the price lies in the topping of hazelnut butter and a fine, if sparse, mincing of white truffles...
Other beguilements included ham, salami, cheese and dozens of honeyed mustards, which, along with the oozing emulsions that passed for salad dressings, were the most characteristic products of the show. Many tasters found la dolce vita by way of ricotta-filled pastry by the Cannoli Factory, and most headed for the booth of Paron Chocolatier to see the first-prize winner among new products (awarded by the show's sponsor, the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade). A visit to Paron meant risking sugar shock because the blue-ribbon concoction turned out to be Eve's Revenge, an obscene...
...pasta pots for Operator Tony May, who masterminds Palio's spacious and vaguely Japanese- looking dining rooms. So far Hellrigl's esoteric offerings have been uneven. They may be as institutionally dull as his lackluster codfish with potatoes or the watery mushroom terrine or as wonderfully executed as the ricotta dumplings with truffle butter or a risotto with sweet red peppers. "It is a challenge to give Americans a taste of my style," Hellrigl says. "Some definitely do not like the food," admits May, "but they may not understand...
...menus, both aristocratic and earthy, exude all the warmth and good humor of la cucina Italiana at its best. For the primo piatto, traditionally pasta or a rice dish or soup, recipes go from the outrageously calorific, like a macaroni concoction with both cream and meat sauces, to simple ricotta croquettes (the ricotta in Rome is made from sheep's milk). To shock the neighbors, there is a fashion able pasta with vodka and red-pepper flakes...
...husband Angelo, who also prescribed the wines throughout. There are surprisingly few game dishes, but Angelo did contribute a rustic pheasant pate. Desserts include a chocolate and amaretti pie from Parma and one lavish sweet, Sicilian cassata: lemon cake lopped with a heady mixture of rum, chocolate and ricotta. The baking of this elaborately decorated cassata is so distracting a labor that in 1575 the Roman Catholic Church forbade nuns to make it during Holy Week...