Word: pork
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Meat producers acknowledge that vegetarian diets can be healthy. They also have responded to the call for leaner food; the National Pork Board says that, compared with 20 years ago, pork is on average 31% lower in fat and 29% lower in saturated fat, and has 14% fewer calories and 10% less cholesterol. But the defenders of meat and dairy can also go on the offensive. They mention the need for B12. And then they ratchet up the fear factor. Kurt Graetzer, CEO of the Milk Processor Education Program, scans the drop in milk consumption (not only by vegans...
...down on the grass and cut up salt pork--which is essentially really, really fatty unsmoked bacon--for a stew, using a split log as my cutting board. I don't know exactly how this stew will taste, but I am pretty sure it will include toothpicks. While I am chopping, I take my first bite of hardtack, the unspoilable bread substance the corps took with them. It's whole wheat flour, salt, water and a drop of butter, baked very crisp. And it's delicious, like a health-food-store wheat cracker. It would go great with goat cheese...
...splintery salt pork in a pot with some cornmeal, sage and water to make what my new friends call "Pork and Cornmeal Stew" and what I call "Fatty Fat Fat." Actually, it isn't that bad. This is the first of many demonstrations that anything made with pork fat tastes good. The corps mostly used bear grease, but pork grease, Leandra figures, is a close approximation, and I get the feeling she knows what she's talking about. By the end of the afternoon, I have eaten more lard than I have eaten altogether in my entire previous life...
...also make a stew out of venison chunks rolled in flour and cooked in pork fat, to which we add water and pearl onions. This is really good--thick and hearty and richly gravied, the onions adding a sweetness to the tender chunks of venison. I fry up some trout rolled in cornmeal and flour in a mess of pig fat: awesome--crisp on the outside and soft and buttery inside. We put some grouse coated in cornmeal in a pan of pork fat: a winner. We find some morels on the property, which we combine with onions and cook...
...cook." One dish stands out in Helder's memory: hare stewed in its own gravy with onions. "It was so natural," he says, deliciously simple in a style that he emulates at Parkheuvel, his Rotterdam restaurant, where the menu features more elaborate dishes, including ravioli stuffed with shoulder of pork and grilled turbot with an anchovy cream. Escoffier would be proud. "You can get so much pleasure from very simple things," says Savoy. "This morning, I feasted on a slice of bread and salted butter." Visit his Paris restaurant (also called Guy Savoy), and the dishes will be more sophisticated...