Word: poiret
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Dates: during 1983-1983
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...Cage aux Folles (literally "Cage of Crazies"; in French slang, "Cage of Gays") is based on Jean Poiret's farce of the same title, which ran in Paris from 1973 to 1980; and it resembles the film starring Ugo Tognazzi and Michel Serrault, which became the most successful foreign-language movie ever shown in the U.S., grossing more than $40 million...
...which by Vreeland's chronology developed in the last half of the 19th century and ended on the eve of the first World War, were opulent and imperial. They may have been the most extravagant fashion since the court of the Sun King. Worth, Doucet, Callot Soeurs, Poiret: the great fashion houses are all represented with gowns and dresses that seem to challenge, in some cases even exceed, the outer limits of craftsmanship. Who would have thought it possible for a bodice to be shaped in such a way, or for silk to fall so unhurriedly, like a dove...
There is no attempt to describe or delineate a house style, to demonstrate how a gown by Worth might be designed or constructed differently from a gown by Paquin. Paul Poiret, one of the first modernist dress designers, is represented in this show by five pieces, but anything that made Poiret daringly innovative is smothered here in the general ambience. In this great age of squeeze, tie and whalebone, Poiret even made dresses to be worn without corsets, but this idea, and all others, goes unremarked by the exhibitors. They busy themselves instead compiling identifications for each garment that list...