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...well as using carbon dating and infrared analysis, Charlier employed the unusual technique of olfacation, or sniffing. In a blind test, two smell experts from French perfumeries Guerlain and Jean Patou whiffed samples of burnt wood, decomposed bones and skin, and noted the odors. "The smells weren't all horrible," says Sylvain Delacourte of Guerlain. "Some were pleasant and fragrant." The predominant scent, vanilla, indicated that the relics came from a body that had decomposed naturally; the organic compound vanillin is produced during this process. Set alight while tied to a stake (three times over, if legend...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: How St. Joan Was Sniffed Out | 4/8/2007 | See Source »

...including Cartier's Le Baiser du Dragon, which is laced with hints of chocolate and caramel, and J. Lo.'s Still Jennifer Lopez, which features top notes of sake. "Rum, licorice, milk and rice flavors are now used in perfumes frequently," says Jean-Michel Duriez, a perfumer for Jean Patou Paris...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Gourmet Perfumes | 1/25/2004 | See Source »

...including Cartier's Le Baiser du Dragon, which is laced with hints of chocolate and caramel, and J. Lo's Still Jennifer Lopez, which features top notes of sake. "Rum, licorice, milk and rice flavors are now used in perfumes frequently," says Jean-Michel Duriez, a perfumer for Jean Patou Paris. The company's latest scent, Enjoy, carries notes of black-currant bud, green banana and pear. Observes Michael Edwards, author of the yearly guidebook Fragrances of the World: "Gourmand notes in perfumes are comforting...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Gourmet Perfumes | 12/22/2003 | See Source »

...fashion story of Lacroix at Patou is one of triumph, the human one contains some sorrow. Jean de Mouy, then 29, had just taken over his family's perfume business when he hired the untried young designer. De Mouy's long shot triumphed, and the House of Patou was restored to its glory days of the '30s. But Picart and Lacroix made demands. They wanted to embark on ready-to-wear as soon as possible. Says Lacroix: "I was creating designs, but people couldn't afford them. I started suffering." About his chimerical designer, De Mouy is philosophical: "I still...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Living: Voila! It's Fun a Lacroix | 2/8/1988 | See Source »

...display window with sand and placed some talismans: bamboo glasses, Camargue grass, a mighty lobster (cooked) and other, more esoteric forms of sea life. When he returned to the salon last Thursday with his Golden Thimble -- all the more precious because his first one is locked away at Patou -- he found that his staff had laid an improvised red carpet, and he responded with a short champagne reception. The staff members were overjoyed. They had, after all, created the winning collection in just three weeks. For the designer, it was a moment for savoring how good his people really...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Living: Voila! It's Fun a Lacroix | 2/8/1988 | See Source »

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