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...which may come as a shock to faithful Child lovers. Was it not Julia who proclaimed in 1966, "I will never do anything but French cooking!"? Her 716-page first volume Mastering the Art of French Cooking, written with Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle and published in 1961, is still regarded as the definitive English-language work on classic French cuisine. Her 207-part French Chef and subsequent TV series, along with her five books and hundreds of magazine and newspaper articles, earned her two prestigious awards from the French government. Indeed, Californian Child, nee Julia McWilliams, has done more...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Living: Thoroughly American Julia | 4/18/1983 | See Source »

...like many French chefs who own and cook in restaurants in the U.S., Julia Child has been deeply impressed by the variety and ever increasing excellence of American raw materials, many of which, like goat cheese, wild mushrooms and caviar, have become generally available only in recent years. "We no longer have to kneel down and bow to foreigners," she insists. "We can be proud of what we have here...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Living: Thoroughly American Julia | 4/18/1983 | See Source »

...could, for example, have concentrated on la nouvelle cuisine. In fact, Chef Child is not a lover of nouvelle cuisine and claims, not entirely rhetorically, that it has been the ruination of many great French restaurants. Moreover, in deciding to mine the rich resources of her own country, Julia is joining a nationwide movement toward a redefined American style of cooking that has won recognition in restaurants from Alice Waters' Chez Panisse in Berkeley to Manhattan's Four Seasons. Julia maintains that American cooking has always been nouvelle in its best sense: based on fresh ingredients, contrasting flavors...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Living: Thoroughly American Julia | 4/18/1983 | See Source »

...Polaroid, one of her previous underwriters, and, of course, mouth-watering color. Instead of concentrating on the making of a single dish, each 30-minute segment will include the preparation of a dinner for ten, an interview with a master chef and a winemaker, a "gathering" sequence in which Julia seeks out her raw materials at their source, be it a crab boat or cheesemaker, and shots of the actual cocktail party and dinner. On one of the first shows, Julia visits a chicken farm, and Austrian-born Chef Wolfgang Puck of West Hollywood's famed Spago continental restaurant...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Living: Thoroughly American Julia | 4/18/1983 | See Source »

...show's setting is a handsome, Colonial-style mansion outside Santa Barbara that has been leased for six months. Says an associate: "The idea is to have fun together, and the show will be fun too." The house has been equipped with what, even for Julia, is the dream kitchen, with two huge central islands and a six-burner Wolf gas stove. "If she turned on all her electric appliances at once, there'd be a blackout from here to Boston," says Russell Morash, the executive producer who has worked with Child for 20 years. (Morash also produces...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Living: Thoroughly American Julia | 4/18/1983 | See Source »

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