Word: jacketted
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Alors, Pierre. The unstructured jacket. An easeful elegance without stricture. Tailoring of a kind thought possible only when done by hand. The layering of fabrics by pattern, texture and color so that clothing takes on for a second the quiet shimmer of a 17th century Japanese print. Surprising combinations of garments-leather pants as part of a suit, a long jacket over foreshortened slacks, a vest worn over a coat-that scramble clichés and conventions into a new and effortless redefinition of style. A functional celebration of fabric. A reshaping of traditional geometry with witty contours, sudden symmetries...
...wear hasn't looked back since Armani dropped the lapels and made the softer tailored look." Says another English designer, David Emanuel, who with his wife Elizabeth whipped up the Princess of Wales' wedding dress: "I feel good when I put on an Armani jacket because the cut and balance are right. So easy, stylish, uncluttered. His distinguishing mark is clearly his tailoring." Adds the innovative American designer Norma Kamali, "I don't know a lot about Armani. But when I say to a guy he looks great, 99% of the time it's Armani...
Many of Armani's things for women are too unusual and finely detailed-and thus too expensive-to knock off, but his jackets have been endlessly copied. "You can copy the look," cautions Dawn Mello, executive vice president of Bergdorf Goodman, "but you can never copy the fit." Indeed, Mello's description of wearing an Armani suit goes past simple enthusiasm or even shrewd salesmanship; it sounds like a recollection of a heavy first date. "Armani really put women in suits," she says. "He emancipated them, in a way. A man expects his suits to be very well...
...wear maintains a certain roughed-up panache, whether it is meant to be dressy or sporty. He has also been warring against what he calls "suit slavery," pushing toward a time "when you make your own eclectic and very subjective definition of style. A suit may now be a jacket with a pair of subtly contrasting sports trousers worn with a printed shirt and a zip-front vest. There should be no dictates, no rules...
...others all over Italy. And only, for the time being, in Italy. Prices can be kept down because the items are produced in quantity and locally: this fall, an Armani Emporium blouse may go for $35, a skirt may range from $40 to $65, a man's leather jacket from $250 to $300. There have been plenty of designer boutiques-most notably Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche-but never any that set out to sell a full designer line at such reduced prices, without a precipitous decrease in quality. One would be hard put to tell the difference...