Word: hauz
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...With only 30 seats, Gunpowder is usually full, even on weekday evenings, so reservations are a must. Go early, and work up an appetite with a walk through its neighborhood, Hauz Khas Village, where chic boutiques nestle among 14th century monuments. The best seats are on the terrace; you'll have an expansive view of a medieval reservoir in front of you, and the pleasant hum of the kitchen just behind...
...also opened on the road). As Peck understands, it's this juxtaposition of the present and the past, of the mundane and the macabre, that is Delhi's special delight for art and history buffs. On the terrace of an abandoned 14th century madrasah in the neighborhood of Hauz Khas, you can stand on the stone steps where Mongol conqueror Timur the Lame walked in 1398, admiring the city whose inhabitants he had butchered (his contribution to Delhi's architecture-pyramids of skulls-has thankfully been lost). Sitting in Haldiram's, a vegetarian eatery in old Delhi, you can admire...
...outer wall of Qila Rai Pithora, one of the city's last surviving pre-Islamic structures. Shah Jahan's great Shalimar Garden, where Aurangzeb was crowned, now has a municipal housing colony on its land. This March, there was an attempt to concrete over the sultanate-period Hauz-i-Shamsi in Mehrauli...