Word: dior
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...news from Paris last week, as French high-fashion designers called the coming season's styles, was shape. Last winter's flapper rage, the short, unfitted boop-a-doop look, had been inaugurated by Dior's A-shape; this year the alphabet has yielded a softer, swirlier letter as a theme-S. At the end of a week studded with the usual fashion-show crises (Red Cross ambulances stood by for crush victims, models fainted as Zippers caught, Designer Michel Goma was rushed to the hospital with appendicitis), the trend was clear: this year's styles...
Fabrics, more than color, are the big highlights. Leather, knit and tweed are big (often combined, particularly by Bonnie Cashin). Cassini and Pauline Trigère have richly printed brocades, Dior-New York shows them in fine, polished, often solid colors. Tiffeau is using lizard in trim and whole cloth for a waterproof, black evening raincoat. For shimmer and shine, the original beads-and-glitter girl, Roxanne of Samuel Winston, has some old-style heavy beaded dresses as well as new lighter ones. Scaasi's long dresses have so much sparkle that many come with protective theatrical capes. Larry...
Died. Carmel Snow, 73, petite, peppery editor in chief of Harper's Bazaar from 1932 to 1957, who helped spread the fame of Dior, Balenciaga and Chanel, won decorations from the French and Italian governments for popularizing their fashion industries; of a heart attack; in Manhattan...
Creator of the chisel-toed footwear is Christian Dior's imperious impresario of shoe design. Roger Vivier, 50, the man who brought the pointed-toe shoe to the U.S. and whom many merchandisers consider the top shoe designer. Vivier shrugs off the complete style change between the two shoes. "After all," he says, "in geometric forms there is only the round, the pointed and the square." Inspiration for the new style came from a pair of 100-year-old blunt-toed shoes. "I hate reminiscence," says Vivier. "I did not imitate; I was inspired...
...amateur shoe designer at 16, Vivier came to the U.S. in 1929 as a designer for Delman's, remained for 25 years. Seven years ago, Vivier returned to Paris as Dior's chief shoe designer. For his custom-made spring collection, he fashioned 70 new chisel-toed models that range in price from $120 to $300. Vivier also produced 60 models for his ready-to-wear line that sell from $17 to $30 a pair...