Word: creaming
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...done it by worrying less about impressing his customers than about just letting them enjoy eating. He begins the meal with a canape of salmon tartare with red onion creme fraiche in a savory tuile that looks just like a tiny ice cream cone. What sounds precious is somehow just fun. Then, because he has the luxury of charging a bucketful, he solves the problem of your palate's becoming bored after two or three bites by serving five to 10 mini-courses of just a few gobbles each. The only big hunks he puts on the plate...
Keller impresses without trying too damn hard, like some other chefs. He doesn't try to shock with weird juxtapositions, as in Tabasco ice cream. You never think, "Great sauce," at the French Laundry. You think, "Man, that sauce tastes more like ginger-carrot than eating a pound of ginger and carrots." The epiphanies come from finally figuring out exactly what certain foods are supposed to taste like. He refuses to fool you into thinking what's in front of you is more than just food. "I remember my first experience at a three-star restaurant in France...
Stein checked in on a few of the freshmen she was mentoring after their first day of Responsible Self last week, a deed she will repeat throughout the year--formally with gatherings for ice cream or pizza, and informally with quick hellos in the dining hall. "They screamed my name across the quad," Stein says. "It's hard to believe these are the same quiet people who stared back at me at the beginning of the weekend. I guess they feel at home." Mission accomplished...
...American way of eating with her emphasis on fresh, organically grown produce and unfussily prepared meat and fish with a Cali-Tuscan twist. If not for Waters, we'd still be wandering in that culinary wilderness between Salisbury steak TV dinners and French foo-foo food smothered in cream. Waters' anniversary meal cost $500 a head and featured lamb, spit roasted over oak and cherrywood fires, served with sauteed chanterelles, and mulberry ice cream cones for dessert. Missed the foodie event of the year? Waters is offering her services on eBay, with proceeds going to her Chez Panisse Foundation...
...Bush-Fox menu is a strongly crossover affair: Maryland crab and chorizo pozole served with summer vegetables, pumpkin seed-crusted bison with poblano whipped potato, fava bean and chanterelle ragout and apple chipotle sauce, salads of gold and red tomatoes and greens, followed by mango and coconut ice cream dome, peaches, raspberries, red chili pepper sauce and tequila sabayon. Hey, who needs Tex-Mex when you're eating chili pepper sauce with the ice cream...