Word: balenciaga
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Even Nicolas Ghesquière, who has attracted much attention in the past few seasons with Balenciaga collections that looked both backward (to the archives) and forward (to Tron-inspired styles), is relying on basics. He showed a street-inspired collection of navy blazers and khakis--recut for a modern woman, of course. Navy and khaki: it doesn't get much more straight up than that...
...name once had to know how to spell the names of the famous fabric houses: Ratti, Bucol, Gandini, Clerici, Guigou, Mantero and, of course, Abraham, the Swiss fabric house owned by Gustav Zumsteg, the late, great textile designer who invented the stiffly finished silk gazar that gave shape to Balenciaga's gowns and who also collaborated with Saint Laurent, Coco Chanel and Hubert de Givenchy...
...runway, there are hundreds of trend forecasters pouncing on the next hot color, texture, fabric, shape or shoe. For spring you may already know that silver is ubiquitous in handbags and shoes and that the silhouette veers between a replicant look best realized by Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and an overtly romantic vision put forth by Alexander McQueen. But never mind spring. At press time we were already on to fall 2007, when menswear styles, funky fur and the color gray will be the dominant trends...
Kanyon's anchor store is the just-opened Harvey Nichols?the 10th branch of the London landmark?where Fendi's in-store boutique sits alongside those of Balenciaga, Luella, Sergio Rossi, Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren. What's striking is how attractive the store is, with hand-blown glass orbs suspended above the cosmetics counters, walls of black tiles studded with Swarovski crystals and floors of glittering mosaics. Fine Turkish workmanship is also evident in the personal-shopping suites, which include opulent sitting rooms, changing rooms and even shower rooms where customers can buy, bathe and have their makeup done...
Sure, there was a futuristic mood on many runways--including silver-streaked trapeze dresses at Fendi, plastic corsets at Dolce & Gabbana and even articulated gold-colored robot leggings at Balenciaga (right). There was a hint of the high-tech future in Hussein Chalayan's remote-controlled dresses, as they shifted from long to short. (Disappearing hemlines are also a trend--most are upper-thigh high). And the '80s notion that fashion will be about athletic wear in ever more technologically advanced fabrics still has plenty of currency...