Word: balenciaga
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...Hatter. Adolfo started at the top, with hats. Now 36, the Cuban-born designer came to the U.S. 17 years ago after a short-lived apprenticeship ("picking up pins" is how he describes it) with Paris Couturier Balenciaga. He checked into a job in the millinery department of Manhattan's Bergdorf Goodman. Six months later he checked out of Bergdorf's and into the hat firm Emme as chief designer. But eight years of turning out nothing but millinery designs left him a grumpy, if not downright mad hatter; he accepted $10,000 in cash from Seventh Avenue...
Much of the impetus comes from the exotic costumes dreamed up by youth, and the watchword is "Do your own thing." The situation has traditional designers up tight. Old standard setters, like Balenciaga, have retired. Others, like Saint Laurent, reach for youth by focusing increasingly on less expensive ready-to-wear clothes. At 46, fatigued by the efforts that have kept him far ahead of other designers, Rudi Gernreich last week announced that he was taking a year off in order to refresh himself. Says Gernreich, who championed the new attitude all along: "I feel that a woman must...
...years, his salon on Avenue George-V was the very citadel of haute-couture, and Cristobal Balenciaga, 73, was its lofty priest. The son of a Basque fisherman, Balenciaga created a legend rich in grace and splendor; elegant women-the Duchess of Windsor, Barbara Hutton, Queen Fabiola-cloaked themselves in the simple yet sumptuous designs that were his trademark. Thus the entire fashion world lost some of its sheen last week at the news that the House of Balenciaga is closing. Some said he is simply bored; others claimed that his disdain for "commercialism" and contemporary styles had caused business...
...customers are the same women who have been buying from Mainbocher, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Dior for years. The list includes such current Best-Dressed women as Lee Radziwill, Christina Ford and Mrs. Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt, as well as Best-Dressed Hall of Famers Gloria Guinness, Jackie Kennedy, "Babe" Paley and Jayne Wrightsman. The key to Valentino's rise: in a fashion world gone mad for mod, he designs clothes of great taste and elegance for women who prize beauty above eccentricity...
...What, then, is a "mini-Shetland"? A Shetland pony that has strayed into the territory of the head-shrinking Jivaro Indians of Peru? Not quite. It's a sweater, and it's the latest style in Paris-not exactly from the showrooms of Courrèges or Balenciaga, but hard to miss on the mesdemoiselles at Castel's discothèque or in Le Drugstore on the Boulevard St. Germain...