Word: puttanesca
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...question on the table this afternoon in the gleaming research and development kitchen of the Cheesecake Factory in Calabasas Hills, Calif. Karl Matz, 31, a former chef at Spago with the earnest good looks of an Eagle Scout, has reluctantly removed the salty little fish from his pasta puttanesca, traditionally made with tomatoes, anchovies, olives, capers and dried red chilis, and sets plates of rigatoni cloaked in the sauce onto a black-marble counter. David Overton, Cheesecake's founder, CEO and ultimate tasting authority, picks up one of the half a dozen forks arrayed for this tasting session and takes...
...Naples (legend says they made the spicy dish for their clients) moves one step closer to the malls of America. Every six months, the restaurant's R&D chefs winnow hundreds of ideas for new menu items--the Cheesecake Factory's version of American Idol--and Matz's puttanesca has reached the finals. After a few years of rounds that added Asian, Caribbean and Latin American flavors to the menu, this round of revisions will reimagine familiar classics like spinach salad, corned-beef hash and spaghetti with red sauce; the puttanesca is a twist on marinara. The winners will debut...
Summer rolls without mint; puttanesca without anchovies. Those are the compromises that have made the Cheesecake Factory such an inviting target. One critic derided the "something for everyone" aesthetic as "a repository for all other corporate-restaurant concepts." Overton can live with that. "We just try to be really good, with strong flavors," he says. "Authenticity isn't anything that we really care about." He's ready for the purists who will complain that the cured meat in a new pasta amatriciana really ought to be guanciale, made from pork jowls, rather than pancetta, pork belly. "You know what? Most...
...menu. The lasagna got the ax, but the Bolognese sauce with white truffle oil will get a shot as a pasta entrée, along with a spinach, poached-chicken and bacon salad, a crab hash made with potatoes and onions and the pasta with four roasted tomato sauces--including puttanesca without anchovies. If they don't sell, they're gone, no matter how much Overton or any critic loves or loathes them...
...Hilton ballroom is sold out, and Cosby, after starting slowly, leaves the crowd howling at his routine on trifocal eyeglasses. In his spacious dressing room between shows, he wolfs rigatoni puttanesca and taps his toe to a jazz tape by Slim Gaillard while entertaining a stream of callers. A casino manager from Reno has flown in with a wholesale price book for sterling flatware; Cosby wants 70 place settings, and he wants a better price than the $98,000 he was quoted retail. He takes a call from a wine merchant about some cases of Chateau Petrus, but tells...
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