Word: oppenheim
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...wear will be ankle-length and flaring. Like Cardin-designed men's wear first marketed in more than 100 U.S. stores last fall, the women's line will be sold in department and specialty stores next fall. Last month Cardin signed a deal with Gunther Oppenheim of Modelia to market Cardin women's clothes in the U.S. Cardin also markets men's hosiery through Vanguard, jewelry through Swank, shirts through Eagle Shirtmakers, ties through Cravat-Pierre, pajamas through Host and wallets through Prince Gardner...
...efficiency. Like his descendants, too, he showed the strain of contrariness and in bred eccentricity that helps make Manchester's series of family portraits a gallery of near-grotesques. Alfred ranted against "speculators, stock-exchange Jews, share swindlers and similar parasites"; then he borrowed from the banker Salomon Oppenheim to meet his payroll. Paranoiacally fearful of Socialist tendencies among his workers, he hired an agent to inspect even the "used toilet paper" for seditious notes. He also located his office above a stable so that he could inhale the "healthgiving" aroma of manure...
That is exactly why many artists find the concept so irresistible. Dennis Oppenheim displays a photograph of a giant nebula made out of aluminum chips that he sprinkled on a field out side New Haven, Conn. Michael Heizer shows a photograph of five holes he dug in the Black Rock desert in Nevada. Robert Smithson exhibits his Non-Site, five trapezoidal woodbins filled with chunks of ore, plus an aerial photograph of the mines in Franklin, N.J., whence they came. This is meant to allow the viewer to contemplate the fact that "140 minerals" are found in the earth...
Dubious as this defense may sound, it is in part based on fact. Dennis Oppenheim was invited by the Yale School of Architecture to design ways in which earth evacuated for superhighways could be molded or mounded. Robert Morris has received a $10,000 commission from the students of Northwestern University to landscape a landfill between the campus and Lake Michigan. As for his mix at the Dwan Gallery, Morris has priced it at $3 a pound. If no buyers show up, he could not care less. Right now what rivets him is the beauty of the butterscotch-colored grease...
They are each by an English writer, and the English have excelled at this kind of thing since Doyle, Buchan and Oppenheim foiled the foreign malefactors. But something has happened to the genre since those simple times when everybody knew who the enemy was. Eric Ambler led a school during the United Front period of the '30s with wonderfully atmosphered thrillers in which the heroes, or their allies, were Soviet security...