Word: lagerfeld
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...designer today, Kelly blurs the line between fashion and show biz. "I think of myself as a black male Lucille Ball," he says. "I like making people laugh." Indeed, can one imagine the reclusive Yves Saint Laurent skateboarding a la Kelly through Paris' seedier neighborhoods? Picture crusty Karl Lagerfeld nude from the waist up, posing for Vanity Fair, with red buttons over his nipples and 16 satin bows on his pigtails? Such antics have charmed the powerful French fashion press. "Le mignon petit noir Americain," enthused one Paris newspaper -- although in America being called a cute little black would seem...
...with a rush of fresh talent: dazzling designers (like the Missonis), some fine hands (like Gianfranco Ferre) and some naughty boys (like Gianni Versace). But, in Armani, it produced just a | single world beater. Paris, on the other hand, can still offer a wider spectrum: sumptuous Saint Laurent, engaging Lagerfeld, generative Miyake, fast-flash Gaultier, ebullient Patrick Kelly. As ever, it is center stage, the arena on which designers want most to play, especially if they are coming on (like Gigli) or consolidating (like Valentino...
...mint and peach. For this year's gala, he will feature richer, deeper colors, hand-woven textures and fabric accented with tassels and trims. "Picture a sarape, or Mexican blanket," he says. "That's my theme." Already his vision has caught the eye of the fashion establishment. "If Karl Lagerfeld had designed those dresses," said Herrera after seeing Ramos' show-stopping stretch denim minidresses, "they would be the hit of the season...
...only one pushing pouf this year. Ungaro, Cardin and Lagerfeld, among others, showed versions of the bubble. (Saint Laurent, who was blowing fashionable bubbles when Lacroix was in his grandmother's attic, showed an exquisite but conventional collection.) But not only did Lacroix pioneer the new silhouette, he is ineffably its presiding spirit...
There is something intimate about a Lacroix presentation, a revelation of taste and spirit that goes beyond the usual limits of professionalism. In fact, compared with Saint Laurent's aesthetic poise or Lagerfeld's streamlined efficiency, Lacroix's enthusiasm looks not quite grown-up, as if he were engaged in a kind of dress-up game. "I do play at being a couturier," he ! acknowledges with a sigh...