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...scale "unconquerable" Mount Fitz Roy (alt. 10,958 ft.) in Patagonia, the climbers approached the Dru with a healthy respect. In earlier assaults on it, they had been beaten by a rockslide and a five-day snowstorm. This time hunger and thirst stopped them about 650 ft. from the summit after they had scaled an obstinate dièdre, a rock ledge jutting out like the edge of doom. Forced to return to their base camp, the mountaineers picked up more food and an extra supply of pitons, the big spikes with eyelets through which climbers string safety ropes...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Sport: Last Trail | 8/11/1952 | See Source »

Racing up again against threatening weather and a lately arrived team of Italians, the climbers took a longer but safer route, up the Dru's north face and over to the point where they had left off earlier. Nearing the needle-like summit, the second man loosened a great boulder that plummeted so close to Dagory that it ripped off his knapsack and scattered a cascade of bright Jordan almonds down the mountainside. But by late afternoon the four men were perched atop the Dru, waiting for aerial photographers to record their triumph. Europe's last unconquered passage...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Sport: Last Trail | 8/11/1952 | See Source »

Frozen Feet. It was Dave Harrah's voice, and it had a tale to tell. Dave and Jim had reached the summit by traversing an 18-in. snow rib that ran for about 300 ft. Coming back, they had stopped a moment-letting the rope that bound them together go slack-for Jim to snap a shot of the summit...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Books: Ordeal in the Sky | 8/4/1952 | See Source »

...exhausting scramble. Dry snow, fine as sand, and rock, crumbled by the unending freeze-and-thaw, gave no firm foothold. But at 11:55 a.m., sucking at the thin, cold air, they were at the center of the long, narrow summit, where they planted a Peruvian flag...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: PERU: Conquest of a Mountain | 7/28/1952 | See Source »

Back in New Delhi last week, after his Swiss climbing expedition gave up just 900 ft. short of Mt. Everest's summit (TIME, March 31), Mountaineer Edouard Wyss-Dunant described a new difficulty facing future Everest climbers. The world's highest mountain, he announced, is getting higher all the time.* Although Everest's altitude is officially listed in India's records at 29,002 ft., the Swiss had expected to find it 81 ft. higher than that. But when they got there the mountain proved even higher by their calculations-29,610 ft. Wyss-Dunant...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Sport: Going Up | 7/14/1952 | See Source »

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