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...must admit this is an auspicious beginning; in his 20 years as a professional guide, Franz grumbles, "for me, there has never been a rich Englishman waiting in a crevasse." Before the reader can say "Grüss Gott!" the three of them are belaying their way toward the summit, along with a tepid villain whom Rudi also rescues, for good measure. By the author of The White Tower and aimed at the schoolboy trade, this is a slick, readable fictionalized account of the 1865 conquest of the Matterhorn: half as high as Mt. Everest, and nearly half as interesting...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Books: Mixed Fiction, Sep. 27, 1954 | 9/27/1954 | See Source »

...General Secretary Morgan Phillips, a stocky ex-miner from Wales, one of Labor's shrewdest political brains and a politico who can sniff a budding political bloom a year off. Had not the Conservatives profited by Churchill's appeal for one more "parley at the summit"? Phillips dispatched a letter to Peking. Months later, at Geneva, China's Chou En-lai gave a benevolent go-ahead...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: GREAT BRITAIN: The Curtain of Ignorance | 9/20/1954 | See Source »

...moment, had done a little snow climbing; two of the other three had no experience at all. University of Washington Medical Student Richard Neal Jr., 24, made the trek in smooth-soled shoes. Even so, all four of the amateur alpinists managed to claw their way to the icy summit of Middle Peak, second highest of the mountain's three...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Sport: Death on Olympus | 9/6/1954 | See Source »

Death on the Ridge. Professor Desio and his men laid Camp 1 at the foot of the Abruzzi Ridge, a gaunt rib which lances upwards towards the summit of K2. On the fearful Abruzzi, perhaps the longest continuously steep climbing ridge in the world, a man is like a fly on a wall. He must edge himself up a vertical "chimney," 100 feet high; if he grabs too hard at the rock, it crumbles in his hand...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: THE HIMALAYAS: Conquest of K-2 | 8/16/1954 | See Source »

Victory at the Summit. They scrambled to the ice-ridge at 27,000 feet. At last they reached the top, and planted the flags of Italy and Pakistan on the treacherous summit itself. From Skardu last week came this laconic but triumphant message: "Victory dated July 31. All well. Together at base camp. Professor Desio." Anxious to avoid any repetition of the "who got there first" disagreement between Everest's Hillary and Tenzing, Desio had kept the names of the victors secret...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: THE HIMALAYAS: Conquest of K-2 | 8/16/1954 | See Source »

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