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...desserts are flan and caramel custard. The flan Iruna ($.40), a plain custard with a chip of cinnamon bark and slice of lemon peel, is delicate and pure. The caramel of the creme caramel ($.40) is always just situated on that sweet-burnt edge which is so good in contract to the rich bland custard. Unusual teas--orange spice has an exotic aroma--and coffee are a hot and welcome coda to this simply cooked, but subtle meal. For care, informality, and consistent excellence, there is none better than the Iruna...

Author: By Robert D. Luskin and Tina Rathborne, S | Title: Edens of Hors d'Oeuvres and Ice Cream | 7/14/1972 | See Source »

...Paysanne ($1.75) was golden, faintly liquid on the inside and generously filled with diced vegetables, potatoes and ham. The entrees were preceded by a salad (a trick they couldn't have picked up on the continent) made of rubbery, dog-eared lettuce, a slab of cucumber, and an unripe slice of tomato. The simple vinegar and oil dressing was unpleasantly sweetened with pickle relish...

Author: By Robert D. Luskin and Tina Rathborne, S | Title: Fair Find, Middling French | 7/7/1972 | See Source »

...Hamburger for $.95. Its chief distinction is that it is charcoal broiled rather than deep-fried in the remains of someone else's Hot Pastrami. The Big Cheeseburger ($1.05) is topped with a big scoop of soft cheddar cheese, a welcome and novel departure from the usual flimsy slice of American...

Author: By Robert D. Luskin and Tina Rathborne, S | Title: Burgers, Pasta and Patisserie | 7/3/1972 | See Source »

Buddy's announced specialty is a Sirloin Steak Dinner for $2.46 which is served with a baked potato, Texas toast (toasted and buttered longitudinal slice of French bread), and a tossed salad. It's no filet mignon, but you certainly get your money's worth...

Author: By Robert D. Luskin and Tina Rathborne, S | Title: Burgers, Pasta and Patisserie | 7/3/1972 | See Source »

...Imperial Margarine, in which a crown appears on the head of a man when he bites into a slice of bread buttered-whoops-spread with Imperial...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Show Business: Now the Lemmies | 6/19/1972 | See Source »

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