Word: silk
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Schwitters did not share the political militancy of other German Dadaists. He was less concerned with offing the pig than mocking it and making silk purses out of its ears. "The picture," he wrote, "is a self-sufficient work of art. It is not connected to anything outside." And indeed, the complex interlocks and dark, sonorous reds and greens in his Construction for Noble Ladies, 1919, carry no detectable political message. But he was intensely aware of the extent to which media had begun to affect life, and the fragments of lettering in The Und-Picture, 1919, reflect a world...
...without exception they worship American materialism. . . . Where the Americans go, so does money, and things to spend the money on-movies, records, radios, clothes, cars, motorcycles. Of course, for as long as you care about them, you can spend the American dollars on uniquely Lao status symbols and valuables-silk, gold ornaments, huge, lavish parties for all your family and friends...
...sportswear type, but a brand-new outrageous variety, cut higher, tighter and altogether skimpier than anything Ruby Keeler ever kicked in (see THE THEATER). No longer fashioned of sturdy standards like denim and broadcloth, the current crop is made of flashier stuff-mink and monkey fur, silk and satin, calfskin, chiffon and cut velvet. The accepted generic term, hot pants, lends the style the leering inference of an adolescent joke. But short shorts are no joke; they are serious business, and women in major European and U.S. cities are currently risking their fashion reputations-and severe frostbite-to wear them...
...within five years had made Maison Chanel a fashion house to reckon with. Coco introduced the tricot sailor frock and the pullover sweater, unearthed wool jersey from its longtime service as underwear fabric and put it to use in soft, clinging dresses. She ushered in gypsy skirts, embroidered silk blouses and accompanying shawls. Even then, Chanel clothes were as high-priced as any Paris couturier's; but only Chanel delighted in having her styles copied -and made accessible at low cost to millions...
...Mademoiselle Chanel has reigned over fashion," mused Jean Cocteau some time ago, "it is not because she cut women's hair, married silk and wool, put pearls on sweaters, avoided poetic labels on her perfumes, lowered the waistline or raised the waistline and obliged women to follow her directives; it is because-outside of this gracious and robust dictatorship-there is nothin» in her era that she has missed...