Word: savarin
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...peak, there is pop: an assemblage in which a real lawnmower leans against a painted canvas; Brillo boxes designed to look exactly like Brillo boxes; cartoons blown up to mural size, complete with dialogue balloons and lithographic dots; old bits of crumpled automobiles presented as sculpture; an old Savarin coffee can containing 18 brushes in turpentine and frozen in ineffable permanency. Sometimes the subjects are erotic. Edward Kienholz's plaster couple makes love in the back seat of a real, if dismembered, car. Larry Rivers' seven-foot, three-faced Negro in plywood achieves vivid connection with a complaisant...
...Brillat-Savarin should have eaten so well. As a table fish, the steelhead offers the best of both its worlds: its flesh has the pink color and high fat content of a saltwater salmon, the delicacy and firmness of a fresh-water trout. Stuffed with onion, lined with bacon strips, drenched in tomato sauce, wrapped in foil and roasted over an open fire, the steelie is enough to make a gourmand out of a gourmet. But it is the sport, not the stomach, that makes a steelhead fisherman. Snorts one oldtimer: "Catching a steelhead for food is like visiting...
...things like river pike drenched in crayfish butter and will, under interrogation and a glaring light, admit that one day last summer he drove 75 miles out of his way to patronize a noted Norman chef, eating two complete meals in a gastric feat that might have made Brillat-Savarin wink in his grave...
...classes the Café de la Paix as an artistic monument. Though most of the restaurant's specialities, e.g., la bouillabaisse de Marius, may be ordered at the counter, the management is making its big pitch for the tourist with short-order dishes that would have made Brillat-Savarin shudder. Items: Pacific Nightmare, a 95? pie filled with minced chicken and fresh mushrooms; Romeo and Juliette Tenderloin Steakie with watercress ($1.35); and 75? Frenchified "hush puppies," French fried cheese balls with salad...
...range and subtlety, French cooking is the best in the world, and Escoffier may well rank France's most celebrated gastronomic names. He lacked the lavish glamor of Caréme, but surpassed him in austere art. He lacked the wit of Brillat-Savarin, but Brillat-Savarin was more gourmet than cook. He lacked the temperament of the great 17th century chef, Vatel, but was more imaginative. Vatel committed suicide, impaling himself on his sword because the sole did not arrive in time for an important dinner. When asked what he would have done in Vatel's place...