Word: salad
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...tells TIME. Batali may be working on all of the restaurants, but the one his heart seems to be in the most is the meat restaurant, which will feature two kinds of beef: a grass-fed Italian Piedmontese variety in various raw preparations ("tartare, carpaccio, a little raw-meat salad with apples ...") as well as a grain-fed superbeef that will be engineered at Carnevino by beef guru Adam Perry Lang. "Mario is really out of control with this new project," a young cook told me. "He's so happy to be back at the oven...
When I visited his kitchen, Coudreaut made an exquisite endive and poached-pear salad with dried cherries and mustard-seed dressing. Say he wanted to put that salad on the menu. Among his first steps would be to go to the produce experts at McDonald's and ask about endive. He imagined the answer he would get: "Well, Dan, you're gonna have to get somebody to grow it. And that's not hard to do, but it's gonna take three years." (See 10 myths about dieting...
...means Coudreaut's food must eventually be so simple that a high school dropout can make it. And so, culinarily speaking, McDonald's moves in baby steps. Before Coudreaut, the company had never asked its cooks to brush a glaze onto a chicken breast before setting it on a salad. Now glazing the chicken is standard, which is one reason the salads taste so much better...
...customers have read Fast Food Nation, a scathing indictment of the industry, or seen the 2003 documentary Super Size Me, in which a filmmaker ate only McDonald's for a month and - shockingly - got fat. Instead, McDonald's has learned to focus on balance: you add a healthy Southwest Salad, and then you add a rich Angus burger. Also, you don't mess with the fries. Coudreaut could never mess with the fries...
Still, it's nice to know McDonald's employs a dreamer. In addition to that endive salad, Coudreaut sautéed a very simple wild-salmon fillet for me - just salmon seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked in olive oil. Four ingredients. I asked why four ingredients couldn't work at McDonald's. Coudreaut thought for a moment and gave a half nod, half shrug. "Maybe five years from now," he said...