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...sovereign succeeded sovereign, Gobelins faithfully followed painting as a kind of painstaking handmaiden. Not until 1937, when French Painter Jean Lurcat introduced abstractions, were the weavers released from traditional subject matter. The revitalized Gobelins factory also attracted the designs of the 20th century's most prominent artists, including Marc Chagall, Jean Arp, Victor Vasarely and Miro. Inspired by the fresh results, contemporary architects awoke to the fact that tapestries provide a highly effective counterpoint for vast spaces and cold materials. Says Miro, enthusiastically planning to collaborate with architects on new tapestries: "As modern man becomes increasingly restless, moving from...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Tapestry: Warp & Woof for the Ages | 9/30/1966 | See Source »

...dresses for individual cus tomers. He is Manhattan's aging Mainbocher, 75, born Main Rousseau Bocher in Chicago-and his dresses can be seen on "CeeZee" Guest and "Babs" Paley. But the wave of the future really lies with the younger designers who produce ready-to-wear. To Marc Bohan of Christian Dior in Paris, California's puckish Rudi Gernreich, 44, is the standout. No designer for conformists, he will go all out to make his point, reaped a whirlwind of publicity in 1964 with his topless bathing suits. He only sold 3,000, but everyone has paid...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fashion: The Americans | 9/9/1966 | See Source »

...MARC ORAISON is a Frenchman and WILLIAM DUBAY is an American, but both are Roman Catholic priests who in separate ways have challenged the Vatican's right to withhold approval from books touching on faith and morals. See RELIGION...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: A Letter From The Publisher: Aug. 19, 1966 | 8/19/1966 | See Source »

...French priest named Marc Oraison was awarded the highest possible mark at Paris' Institut Catholique for a doctoral thesis entitled Christian Life and Problems of Sexuality. After it was published as a book, Abbe Oraison was summoned to the Holy Office at the Vatican, where, he recalls, Alfredo Cardinal Ottaviani and Giuseppe Cardinal Pizzardo counseled him that the best methods for preserving sexual purity are a good diet and fear of sin. As Abbé Oraison wrote in Le Monde: "Twice Cardinal Pizzardo repeated to me, 'For purity-fright, spaghetti and beans.' " Then Cardinal Ottaviani told...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Roman Catholics: The Issue of Imprimatur | 8/19/1966 | See Source »

...sensation was Dior's Marc Bohan. AGENT PROVOCATEUR, headlined Women's Wear Daily, which had a full day's scoop on the Dior collection. Stalking down Dior's ramps, models swaggered in mid-calf-length capes and military greatcoats that could have stepped right out of Doctor Zhivago. True, underneath, Bohan had his models in guillotine-hemmed up-and-down dresses or knee-length double-breasted suits, but the challenge to the high-rise hem was obvious. "Something had to be done about the length," said Bohan. "They couldn't get any shorter-and besides...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fashion: Stopping the Escalation | 8/5/1966 | See Source »

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