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...Spaniards have to emigrate north for jobs: their income rose to 79% of the E.C. median. Culturally, Spain became fashionable: the campy fantasies of filmmaker Pedro Almodovar; the sunswept abstractions of painter Miguel Barcelo; the postmodern extravaganzas of architect Ricardo Bofill; the prankish sexiness of fashion designer Sybilla. Madrid promoted itself as the eye of a creative tornado known as la movida, whirling all night long. Novelist Camilo Jose Cela won the 1989 Nobel Prize for Literature. "In the 1960s, we felt like second-class Europeans," says Juan Sanchez-Cuenca, director of the U.S.-affiliated advertising firm Bozell Espana...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Dark Side of Spain's Fiesta | 7/13/1992 | See Source »

...also the decade of "los butiful," Spanish jet-setters who made fortunes in banking and speculation. But in 1992 a new sort of hero set a bonfire to those vanities. This spring 470 coal miners arrived in Madrid after marching more than 300 miles from Leon in the north to protest layoffs. Villagers on the harsh Castillian plateau turned out to applaud and even sing to them; television stations filmed the blisters on their feet. "If they import Polish coal, our valley will die," said Eugenio Carpintero, 32, swigging wine from a leather pouch on a blustery afternoon. Outside...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Dark Side of Spain's Fiesta | 7/13/1992 | See Source »

...onetime firebrand lawyer, Gonzalez has evolved into a smooth diplomat more at home on the international stage than on the streets of Madrid. Last year, brushing off opinion polls that showed most Spaniards opposed the gulf war, he allowed the country's air bases to be used as launching pads for U.S. bombing raids against Iraq. Eventually, domestic opposition faded, and Spanish prestige in the international arena rose, heightened by Madrid's success in hosting last fall's Arab-Israeli peace talks...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Dark Side of Spain's Fiesta | 7/13/1992 | See Source »

...European nations that must still contend regularly with terrorists. But the Basque extremists, who had threatened to disrupt the 1992 festivities, were severely weakened by recent arrests of their top leaders. Nevertheless, the group showed signs of life last month when it bombed a navy van in Madrid, wounding 13. Although Spain's 17 regions are gaining more autonomy, the national-identity issue remains explosive. Catalans and Basques, who control their own schools, police forces and television stations, envision an even more independent future under a Euro-umbrella. The Basque country, says Guernica Mayor Eduardo Vallejo, "should be the 13th...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Dark Side of Spain's Fiesta | 7/13/1992 | See Source »

Last fall, when the protests were televised, similar demonstrations flared in Barcelona, Madrid, Santander and Murcia. Embarrassed, the national police stormed Malvarrosa and attacked unarmed demonstrators with tear gas, rubber bullets and water cannons, injuring 35. But the assault backfired: two weeks later, 25,000 Valencians turned out to protest against the police and uphold the vigilante movement. "If necessary, we'll continue our protests forever," says bartender Jose Lopez...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Dark Side of Spain's Fiesta | 7/13/1992 | See Source »

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