Word: leatherizing
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...Vance was five), he spent much of his boyhood in Clarksburg, W. Va., where he became friendly with John W. Davis, the unsuccessful Democratic nominee for the presidency in 1924. "I used to browse in Mr. Davis' law library," Vance once recalled. "I remembered the smell of bound leather and those wonderfully big shelves of law books." Vance was sent to the Kent School in Connecticut. He earned his undergraduate and law degrees from Yale (one fellow law school student: Gerald Ford). His career has been true blue ever since...
Bombarding Shoppers. Walker begins by studying a store to see what departments should be close together-for instance, jewelry and leather goods, which appeal to high spenders. Then he figures out how people should walk through a given floor. To influence them, he often replaces the conventional long lines of counters with displays that jut into the corridors. These "islands" give shoppers a visual sample of the goods for sale just around the corner. The aim is to bombard customers with subtle enticements to explore the store-and buy more goods. When successful, says Walker, "shopping becomes entertainment...
Always a shrewd, careful scenarist (Accident, The Go-Between), Harold Pinter pays particular attention to the functional unreality of moviemaking. In one scene-not from Fitzgerald-a film editor expires noiselessly during the running of a new film. He is slumped in the front-row leather armchair, head rolled to one side in what must have been a last act of deference to the assembled executives. No last words, not even a cry for help. "He probably didn't want to disturb the screening," muses one of the nabobs...
Swaddling Coats. Even European designers are getting into the north-country spirit. Paris' Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, 26, is the most nobly sauvage of the pack. His collection includes sweatpants ($98) tucked into linen or leather booties, parkas with built-in knapsacks ($160) and swaddling coats made from blanket material ($355). Proclaims Castelbajac: "The outdoors look is a reaction to dullness...
...good humor that jarred. He did not give a fig for the lines of high seriousness imposed by the hardcore New York art world. His reputation would look after itself; he would not tend it. Besides, Rauschenberg was a natural dissipater. The sight of him in his porcupine-quill leather jacket, erect but slightly, marinated with Jack Daniel's, cackling like a Texan loon and trying to get his arm around everyone at once, was too familiar...