Word: lahaina
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...Kaanapali Beach Resort on Maui's west coast, overlooking the cloud-capped, green-velvet islands of Molokai and Lanai. On 470 acres girdled by three miles of wide white sand beach, Kaanapali has more than 2,200 rooms divided among the Sheraton-Maui, Royal Lahaina (the island's largest), Kaanapali Beach and Maui Surf hotels. Other Kaanapalitan lures include two championship golf courses (several couples each year get married on the 18th hole); 20 tennis courts; Whaler's Village, a 30 store shopping complex; and an airstrip from which Royal Hawaiian Air Service whisks the visitor...
Most island visitors prefer Scotch or martinis. After soaping off the Coppertone, they generally settle for dinner and dreams. For the indefatigable, however, there is nightlife on Maui. There are waiting lines outside the Lost Horizon disco at the Wailea Beach Hotel; the Royal Lahaina's Foxy Lady packs in upper teenagers and the Tommy Dorsey set in equal numbers. The island's hottest spot is the Bluemax, in the town of Lahaina, where visiting Elton John and Linda Ronstadt have done their stuff off the cuff; the place is packed nightly in hopes that other drop...
Indeed, by night or day, the island's fun-and-games fulcrum is Lahaina (pronounced La-high-nah), a one-street, six-block town with the raffish aura of Virginia City cum Tijuana. Once the playground of Hawaiian royalty, and later in the 19th century a major port for whaling ships and China clippers, the clapboard community has been restored to a state of authentic tackiness. La haina boasts some 30 restaurants and about 260 stores whose offerings range from elegant scrimshaw and touristy puka-shell necklaces to T shirts with slogans like DON'T HASSLE THE HUMPBACKS...
Later this year the Lahaina Restoration Foundation will have almost totally rebuilt Carthaginian II (named for the fictional vessel in James Michener's Hawaii), which will be a true replica of a 19th century trader. One of the foundation's major enterprises is a marine research center which is trying to preserve the endangered humpbacks, of which there are perhaps only 850 left. (By dialing 667-9316 you can hear them "singing.") The foundation has also restored to Victorian primness the home of the Baldwin family, pioneer missionaries and landowners of whom the natives still say: "They came...
...them so-so or ho-ho. Among the best: Inter-Continental's La Perouse (where the resident harp player is truly named Holly Angel), Wailea Beach's Raffles, Robaire's, Kimo's and Chez Paul, a French bistro in a beat-up storefront near Lahaina that is owned by a Boston Irishman named Paul Kirk (fortunately, his French wife Fernanda presides over the stove...