Word: kitchened
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When home economists ran the kitchen, recipes read like laboratory reports, and human voices could rarely be discerned above the instructions for tsp. and tbsp. But that was a generation ago. Today cooking has become a prime medium for self-expression, television has made superstars of once anonymous chefs, and the voices of food writers resound through their works...
Modesty -- in short supply this year -- is the enticing ingredient of three new cookbooks. The authors have all received wide recognition as cooking teachers, and their recipes are both delicious and reliable. Marcella's Italian Kitchen (Knopf; $22.95) is the third book by the redoubtable Marcella Hazan, a no-nonsense instructor who has conducted classes in New York City, Bologna and now in Venice. As before, she advocates the one right way to do a particular task or dish, usually with her old reliable utensils. "If I had to choose, I would sooner give up my food processor, because what...
...author always manages to find delectable Italian dishes and variations that seem new, and she can still entice the most indifferent reader to the kitchen. There, in the tradition of Julia Child and other thoughtful instructors, she will instruct how much of a dish can be made in advance, a great boon to anyone entertaining dinner guests. Among the many excellent recipes, a few that were irresistible in the testing were a risotto with squid, shrimp and clams, and a rosemary-and-sage-scented shoulder of veal, encrusted with bread crumbs and Parmesan after being braised. Pears simmered...
Anne Rosenzweig, the inventive and talented chef who is part owner of the Manhattan restaurant Arcadia, is shy and diffident in the dining room, but given the consistent excellence of her food, she must have an iron will in the kitchen. The new American dishes served at her small and sophisticated restaurant are at once surprising yet comfortably familiar in taste. Now she and the artist Paul Davis, who painted the impressionistic seasonal mural that wraps around the walls of the restaurant, have put together a tiny, precise and endearing conceit: The Arcadia Seasonal Mural and Cookbook (Abrams; $14.95). This...
Michael Cooperson '87 says his childhood was "just not normal. My Mom sang Greek hymns in the kitchen. At one point my Dad went around speaking Yiddish to everyone, even though we couldn't understand...