Word: kitchened
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That is precisely why I have been messing around in the kitchen since high school days, when I was the first football player to hold membership in the Chef's Club. If I knew how to cook, I would be sure to eat when and what I wanted, even though my mother and father were both steady producers of great food. Cookbooks should serve the same end: better, more flexible eating...
...books that resurrect the wonderfully old-fashioned regional cookery, from Cajun to Mennonite. Most cooks won't buy more than a couple of cookbooks a year, so I have ranked the following in order of purchasing preference. Work from the top down, as in a recipe, to stock the kitchen library...
...Sheila Lukins (Workman; $29.95). These are the people who founded New York City's swell little gourmet-food store the Silver Palate and then produced one of the pioneer nouvelle American cookbooks. At 849 pages, The New Basics describes and prescribes just about everything one does in the kitchen...
...Basics is diverse, sophisticated and essential. It is also, however, cloying in parts. "We have known and loved Sarabeth for years -- and love having breakfast in Sarabeth's Kitchen," begins the recipe for Sarabeth Levine's Goldilox, which turns out to be scrambled eggs with cream cheese and smoked salmon. Go straight to the recipes -- especially the quick and easy bouillabaisse with a peppery rouille -- and skip the biographical musings in the preface, which tell us more than we want to know about the authors' families and herb gardens...
...objection to all the pretty pictures in this and other books is the inevitable sense of inferiority they produce when the food comes out of the kitchen. For example, Michael McCarty, owner of California-style restaurants in New York City and Santa Monica, Calif., has published Michael's Cookbook (Macmillan; $29.95), which rates three stars for art direction. Each food section opens with a page of modern art by, say, Helen Frankenthaler or Richard Diebenkorn. What they have to do with eating eludes me. Worse, in each section there are color plates showing the finished dishes. Each is an artistic...