Word: khao
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SWINGING SCENE Its array of ancient temples and centuries-old, wooden storefronts would be enough to distinguish Phetchaburi, 100 miles south of Bangkok, from other road stops on the way to Hua Hin. Yet it was the royal architecture at Khao Wang, or Palace Hill, that in its heyday drew the rich and famous to this faded gem of a trading port, whose name means "Diamond City...
...Monkeys may be your only company at Khao Wang. Phetchaburi does not have the grand hotels and great beaches that traditionally attract tourists. Instead, its charm lies in the streets little changed since the 1800s, and a collection of temples that rank among Thailand's most diverse. Murals at Wat Ko Kaeo Sutharam show a Westerner (an early Jesuit missionary most likely) attending an ancient Buddhist ceremony. That may be the only Western face you see in Phetchaburi these days. Which is strange, considering that in its heyday, the hilltop palace complex was the hip place to swing...
...Another local delight is the khao man kai, succulent boned chicken with savory rice and a peppery chicken broth, prepared at the no-name restaurant next to the 7-Eleven on Charoen Krung between sois 63 and 65. Adding extra grated ginger to the nam chim dipping sauce transforms this Thai version of mom's chicken soup into true food for the soul. (Open 5 p.m. through 1 a.m., prices at around...
...Hope's Oasis is among the first establishments of its kind in Vang Viang?a casually vibed hangout where foreigners can smoke ganja, drink beer and listen to early '90s house music. It's the sort of place you might expect to find on Khao San Road in Bangkok or in Ko Samui?and its appearance along with a few Internet caf?s means Vang Viang is in the initial throes of a tourism boom. Indeed, the first video bar has opened down the street. Martin Dillon hasn't even named his joint yet. But as the twentysomething Englishman sits...
...final week of shooting on Jan Dara, and the location is Khao Yai National Park, a two-hour drive from Bangkok, where a lavish set has been prepared to resemble an aristocratic complex of five houses from the 1950s. Work begins at a wrenching 6 a.m. and drags on for 22 hours, and the temperature is soaring. It will soon get hotter. The final scene in the production schedule is a sybaritic consummation of furtive desire between two female characters. That has created anticipation, apprehension, curiosity and some plain old sauciness that one suspects was the intention from the start...