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Goverdhan Singh Rathore broke the news gently to his young guests: there might not be a tiger. They had traveled all day through the Indian countryside by car and train with their families to Ranthambhore National Park to see the tigers, and Rathore, a medical doctor turned hotelier who grew up in the park, wanted them to understand why there were only 32 remaining in the 155 sq. mi. (400 sq. km) reserve. It was cocktail hour, and the families staying at Khem Villas, the 15-room guesthouse opened by Rathore and his wife Usha 2 1?2 miles...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Move Over, Maharajahs | 10/25/2007 | See Source »

...whole ethos is that luxury travel is about having experiences," says James Jayasundera, founder of Ampersand Travel in London, which specializes in customized tours of the Indian subcontinent. Paradoxically, in a country with 1.1 billion people, it can be tricky for visitors to truly connect with even one or two natives. "Traveling by train for short distances has always been a good way for foreigners to engage locals," he says. "Now there are a lot of small hotels run by absolutely fascinating people where guests mingle, sometimes eat together. These are also the best places for meeting upwardly mobile Indians...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Move Over, Maharajahs | 10/25/2007 | See Source »

...Prior to 20 years ago, these small hotels didn't even exist," says Mary-Anne Denison-Pender, whose Mahout agency promotes small Indian hotels in the U.K. In the '80s, in a bid to finance maintenance on their private properties, some families tried their hand at the hotel business. "Every person with a fort thought they had a hotel, but many of them didn't invest enough, and they got backpackers and low-budget tourists," she says...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Move Over, Maharajahs | 10/25/2007 | See Source »

...close the gap, the big hotel groups are currently focused on no-frills hotels in booming economic centers like Bangalore, as well as leased residence hotels. The Indian government, concerned about the shortage driving up prices and eager to create more options by 2010, when India will host the Commonwealth Games, is pushing for families to turn their homes into bed-and-breakfast operations. Faiz Dadarkar, a Jaipur entrepreneur who set up the Jaipur Pride network to match travelers with homestays, was astounded when 4,500 people responded to his billboards in 2005. He organized five training seminars. "We covered...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Move Over, Maharajahs | 10/25/2007 | See Source »

...this café is charming in more relaxed situations. The outdoor tables may resemble those on the streets of Paris more than in the squares of the Basque Country from which the institution takes it name, but they make a lovely place to sit on these sunny Indian Summer days. The guava and cheese sandwich may seem like a strange combination, but its contrasting flavors satisfy pretty much any craving. 4. Finale, Burdick’s, and the Barker Center Café (Three-Way Tie): What’s wrong with each of these places? The first is too swank...

Author: By Aliza H. Aufrichtig and Marianne F. Kaletzky, CONTRIBUTING WRITERS | Title: Out of Lamont and Into Cafés | 10/25/2007 | See Source »

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