Word: helmut
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Especially since many luxury-goods companies are now paying for overreaching in the '90s. Prada, which acquired Jil Sander and Helmut Lang back then, has been struggling with the resultant $743.6 million debt. And LVMH is reportedly looking to sell the Donna Karan company. Then there are retreating industry stars like Calvin Klein, who retired last summer, and Donatella Versace, who in an attempt to curb financial woes is closing stores and cutting budgets...
...world, so we did couture," says Horsting. "It was a good way to get our name out," says Snoeren. The fashion press began to take notice, as did Franco Pene, head of the Italian manufacturing company Gibo and the man who made the early collections of Helmut Lang, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs. When he approached Horsting and Snoeren and asked if they could translate their unwearable haute couture collections into a commercial ready-to-wear line, they were eager to try. Even then, they remained abstract. Each article of clothing was made up of three pieces that...
...photograph of a woman." That's not the half of it. Like a building, even a bad one, a fashion photograph is the picture of an age, full of signposts to whatever spirits are at large. You sense that right away in just about any picture by Helmut Newton, photographer of consequence, full-time provocateur, dirty old man. In the 1970s Newton became famous with fashion shots that introduced to the pages of Vogue the black leather of European decadence. (This was before Robert Mapplethorpe showed us that dog collars were as American...
...leaf through his saw-toothed magazine work or climb the barbed wire of White Women, his first, unforgettable photo book, and you find yourself remembering what D.H. Lawrence said of Herman Melville: "Choosingly, he was looking for paradise. Unchoosingly, he was mad with hatred of the world." The Helmut Newton we meet in Autobiography is the one looking for paradise, the man on the make, the guy Hitler never laid a glove on. And the turbulent man we meet in his pictures? We may have our suspicions, but when it comes to the hard edges of his own life, Newton...
...baht, bargained down to 400); a pair of well-worn Levi's 501s (800 baht, down to 650); a "Made in Hawaii" rayon aloha shirt with coconut-shell buttons (1,000 baht, down to 700); a Lee denim jacket (600 baht, down to 400); a black canvas belt?very Helmut Lang (fixed price of 100 baht); one Fred Perry and two Ralph Lauren polo shirts (totaling 350 baht); and six U.S. college sports-team T shirts (the lot at 200 baht...