Word: forester
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...Despite the marauding elephants and trigger-happy locals, the best way to explore the sights, sounds and smells of coffee country is to take a random stroll. You may spy wild boars or deer?or a villager hurrying to the forest to collect honey and herbs. Cardamom, pepper, ginger and cinnamon grow in abundance, in both cultivated and wild varieties. The coffee bushes blossom in March and April. Even during the busy November harvest season, when guests are invited to join in the berry picking, any visitor will feel a splendid isolation surrounded by the giant rosewood, fig and mahogany...
...FOREST'S DARK CREATURES Nagarahole is a lush tropical forest on the edge of Coorg, where the coffee bushes give way to bamboo thickets on either side of the road. You'll know you've reached the national park by the roadside checkpoints manned by wildlife officers. They're on the lookout for the illegal hunters and smugglers who roam this wild area, trading in both ivory and aromatic sandalwood trees. Bandits have made the place their Sherwood Forest. The infamous Koose Muniswamy Veerappan, known for a long run of kidnappings, is reputed to have funded operations from woodland spoils...
...Forestry Department offers tours by four-wheel-drive vehicles, but they are usually noisy, and the smell of diesel exhaust obliterates the rich scents of the flora. Thankfully, the drivers stall their engines at intervals. As the sounds of the forest fill in the silence, visitors may detect bison or deer in distant clearings or hear elephants trumpeting from afar. For a more organic transportation option, try a guided tour on the back of an elephant?the maharajas hunted in this style. You can also reserve an evening in a crude wooden watchtower called a machaan, where you can stealthily...
...residents breed and train the ones they already have, and put on shows for tourists. Sounds pretty tame, but the camp's denizens love to point to a rogue jumbo, tethered with heavy chains nearby, and recount the harrowing tale of the time he ran amok in the forest. It's enough to make you want to get back on the boat...
...Thursday, Veerappan demanded the release of Kolathur Mani, a political extremist with strong ties to the Tamil Tigers, to head negotiations for Nagappa's release. But as of last Saturday, police and federal commandos claimed to have the bandit cornered in a 5-sq-km patch of the Dinnahalli forest. Could this be Veerappan's final caper...