Word: dressing
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...grey lady in a bright red dress was standing in front of another picture of Richard Cardinal Cushing--this one was signed. She looked at my reporter's notebook and asked suspiciously who I was. "How long has this school been here?" I asked. I can repeat questions...
...Academy of Design, is an eye-popper. The interplay of color and fabric is, as usual, dazzling. Heavy-duty industrial zippers are used with both leather and lace; effulgent Hudson's Bay blankets from L.L. Bean are trimmed with satin and turned into evening coats; a snazzy sequined evening dress is shaped and decorated like a football jersey. Vintage cartoon characters such as Felix the Cat and the Little King undercut and complement the high seriousness of a swank evening gown. The revelation of the show, which combines work from his first collection to his very latest, is its restless...
Beene can sculpt a dress with sensual simplicity or fill out a coat so that it seems to loft from the body. His rule breaking -- like putting diamonds on a plastic bracelet -- is focused, almost casual, and helps shatter stereotypes. In the fashion world, Beene has resisted and neatly refuted the caricature of Americans as the slightly slaphappy innovators of sportswear and merchandising trends. A long black wool coat from 1983, with flowing gold satin insets along its back and sleeves, constructed of curved seams, is a masterly combination of grand luxe and offhand invention, a subtle experiment in enlarging...
Like all of Beene's best work, this coat does not flout tradition, it teases it. Beene keeps rebellion firm but marginal, just as he did as a young medical student, when he sketched dresses on the page borders of his Gray's Anatomy. The year after Geoffrey Beene, Inc., was launched, Beene won the first of an unprecedented eight Coty Awards, the industry's Oscars, for his women's fashions. By the early '70s, he had made a wedding dress for Lynda Bird Johnson and had become one of the country's best-known and most sought-after designers...
Musing about the international itinerary of teen trendiness, Marciano adds, "American kids are inspired by the French, and the French are inspired by Californians." He points out that eye-scorching colors have been part of the Europeanized surfer look for the past three years. Dress-code breakers, think it over. How about a blazer that is citrus colored instead of navy? What about a pleated uniform skirt covered not with muted plaid but with surfer slogans? And traditionalists: What about some nice blue flannel bike-racing shorts? Wait till next year...