Word: dior
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...clothes, Saint Laurent picked people, decided to keep the 8,000 imported garments off the racks and out of sight for the opening. Nobody minded. For at the age of 32, Saint Laurent is a celebrity's celebrity. Tapped eleven years ago to inherit the mantle of Dior, he scored such a smash hit with his first collection, featuring his trapeze line, that crowds gathered outside the Dior headquarters on Paris' Avenue Montaigne, crying "Au balcon!" until he emerged on the balcony to wave. Branching out under his own name, he scored again, producing 1962's long...
...like putting on dark glasses. Soon after takeoff, the stewardesses came down with refreshments-tea from a family-sized aluminum pot, fruit juices, mineral water and, of course, vodka. Because it was an inaugural flight, there were quantities of red and black caviar, commemorative bronze medallions and favors-Dior's Diorissimo for the ladies, Eau Sauvage...
...spot discounts. On the other hand, Liz on the Rue de Rivoli, which counts on Americans for 90% of its business, will go on as before-though the firm is now providing airport-bound customers with buses staffed by hostesses who help with the confusion at customs. And at Dior last week, Director Jean-Marc Depoix comfortingly reassured his jet-set clientele that Dior's 15% discount would be granted as usual, added that "our foreign friends have been treated lightly enough as it is without adding this new insult...
...youth bold, irreverent, geared high, full of jokes and independence. Fashion feeds on change, and what is In one moment is often Out the next. The flapper dresses of the 1920s, for instance, skimmed the top of the knee for only two years (1926-27) before hemlines began falling. Dior's New Look, which sent skirts plummeting in the post-World War II years, began in 1947; three years later, hemlines were on the rise. But there are also more durable upheavals based on fundamentally altered outlooks and attitudes; the present revolution, which has been a long time brewing...
Gernreich began learning the hard way, working for dress designers on the West Coast and in Manhattan. "I was expected to turn out collections based on Dior and Fath," he recalls, "but I was ready to burst out with new ideas." His chance to do so came in 1952, when he teamed up with Walter Bass, a fellow Viennese emigrant and the son of a tailor to royalty. Bass at the time was turning out classic women's suits-tight-fitting, full of darts, and with broad padded shoulders-in a small loft in Beverly Hills. "Rudi was doing these...