Word: cornmeal
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...part, though, Kovi's dishes are more benign: juicy sauerkraut glowing with paprika, subtle tarragon-scented fish soup and mushroom-stuffed carp, crisp roast goose and leg of veal with goose liver, kohlrabi nestled in egg barley and, for a delicate touch, "blushing tomatoes in sour cherry vinegar." Eggplant, cornmeal, strudels and the fragrant honey cake mézeskalács are all included...
...labor of love a Circo-lo - a play on the Italian for circus and club. Picchi, 50, clearly relishes greeting guests and cooking with his crew in the open kitchen, announcing the arrival of fragrant tureens of saffron risotto, polenta with cinnamon and thick Tuscan soups like farinata (with cornmeal and black cabbage). Afterward, the chef presents the show. "I'm having fun here now," he says, "but Il Cibrèo is towing everything." tel. [39-055] 200 1492; www.teatrodelsale.com
...labor of love a Circo-lo?a play on the Italian for circus and club. Picchi, 50, clearly relishes greeting guests and cooking with his crew in the open kitchen, announcing the arrival of fragrant tureens of saffron risotto, polenta with cinnamon and thick Tuscan soups like farinata (with cornmeal and black cabbage). Afterward, the chef presents the show. "I'm having fun here now," he says, "but Il Cibr?o is towing everything." (39-055) 200 1492; www.teatrodelsale.com
...beloved rolls. Cano starts by mixing flour, soy oil, yeast, sugar and salt. His dough is refrigerated at 39 degrees for up to 12 hours. To make rolls from the dough, he lets chilled dough rise at room temperature for an hour and a half before dipping balls in cornmeal and baking them at 375 degrees for 15 minutes...
...technique is to force-feed ducks with cornmeal through a tube put down their throats several times a day, causing their livers to enlarge. Guillermo Gonzalez, owner of the Stockton foie gras farm, says the procedure doesn't harm the birds, whose livers are enlarged naturally in the wild before they migrate. Counters Sarahjane Blum, a spokeswoman for GourmetCruelty.com "If this were being done to dogs or cats, the producers would without a doubt be in prison for animal cruelty." Anyone for caviar? --By Terry McCarthy