Word: chanelling
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...back an old friend after a two-year sabbatical: TIME'S Show Business section. The editors missed it, and thought perhaps readers did too. The occasion seems particularly appropriate: the staging of Coco, with Katharine Hepburn in her first Broadway musical playing the role of Fashion Designer Coco Chanel. The story was written by another Kate-Katie Kelly, who came to TIME as a researcher in 1966, has been a writer since July 1968. In subsequent weeks, Katie and her co-workers will range over the entire Show Business scene from Broadway to Hollywood-wherever the lights are brightest...
...stir up a little talk. After all, Oh! Calcutta! has done more for the cocktail party than for the stage. Clothes will be the talk of the season as far as Coco is concerned. This musical, based on the life of famed 86-year-old Fashion Designer Coco Chanel, brings Katharine Hepburn back to the Broadway after a lapse of 17 years. Haute couture will be served with 253 costume changes, and the approaching theater-party ladies can be heard with the clarity of an elephant stampede...
...skirt. Courreges had a model roar up to the footlights in a minicar with a Plexiglas dome, and presented another wearing pingpong balls pasted on her oversized sunglasses. Cecil Beaton sketched. Lauren Bacall applauded. Katharine Hepburn hid out from photographers. Coco Chanel curled up on the salon stairway while her collection was shown and coolly surveyed the crush below. But then Chanel has been around long enough to know that nothing very extraordinary was going on. Nothing but the Paris fall fashion showings-and the first glimpse of the season's changes...
...midi and maxi forces? Would there be a repeat of 1947's New Look, plunging hems toward the ground-along with the hopes of girl watchers around the world? By week's end, who could tell? Some designers (Ungaro and Courreges) liked them short. Others (like Chanel, who calls the midi "awkward") prefer skirts that end at the bottom of the knee or at the ankle. Yves Saint Laurent is absolutely jenesais pas on the subject. He has a new long daytime look -straight cardigan suits that stop short just at the knee. For cover...
There are hints of the '30s, as in Chanel's navy wool smoking suit (complete with white starched shirt front and miniature black bow tie), and of the '40s, with Givenchy's languorous silver-fox coat. Saint Laurent goes way back: "It's 1890," he says of his patchwork evening dress with leg-of-mutton sleeves. He does not say which year inspired his black otter coat, appliqued on the back with a Somalia panther skin; whenever it was, the panther apparently had a bad time of it; he looks properly appalled at his fate...