Word: avoidance
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...permed) hair, mustache, goatee, sideburns, a bright red, shiny satin jacket with a gold embroidered dragon, matching red polyester jersey pants and sandals?this is classic yakuza garb. If you are unlucky enough to come across someone like this in Shinjuku's back alleys, the best advice is to avoid eye contact, hold your breath and keep walking...
...with the locals Melanesian culture is as gregarious as it gets, so hanging out with local peers is the best way to have fun and avoid trouble...
...self-drive Driving is tricky in Moresby. You have to go slow enough to avoid accidents (a collision with the wrong people might become the cue for violent confrontation) but quick enough to avoid being a target. Hire an experienced local driver...
...standard ghetto survival Don't walk alone late at night; don't wear expensive jewelry; avoid carrying handbags; don't appear lost or uncertain...
...funkiest. Of course, the area's popularity may well end up destroying the very qualities that led Bai Feng and others to the district in the first place. Houhai has now hit its sweet spot, busy enough to generate real buzz but not so overrun that you would avoid it-visit before it's too late. As for Beijing's next district of the month, watch this space...