Word: antwerp
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...fresh and refreshingly feckless designs of Sybilla, 25, of Madrid, and Dirk Bikkembergs, 29, of Antwerp, have mostly their brio in common. There is no serious risk that anyone would ever get their labels switched. Bikkembergs works out of a small, somewhat dilapidated studio, where he turns out a line of men's clothing that alternates between the sober gray severity of sweatsuit-style knitwear and the giddy excesses of retro-hippie sports clothes. Sybilla, who designs in a "dream house" atelier in Spain's sunny capital, makes mischievous, inventively styled fashions for women that work from no fixed stylistic...
...moniker to move trippingly off the American tongue -- by referring to the designer as "the Dirker," as if he were some arcane medieval instrument used for storming castles. A native of Germany, Bikkembergs grew up in a strict, financially comfortable household. During his teenage years, he moved to Antwerp and became one of the leading designers in the city's gutsy fashion circle. Bikkembergs has some pretty strong ideas about his impact. "So far," he says, "I have made no money at all. But in four years, the world will be at my feet...
...Corot and Boudin. In 1905 he saw what Matisse and Derain had done at Collioure, under Van Gogh's spell, with the hot colors and white light of the Midi. Prodded by his friends Othon Friesz and Raoul Dufy, he began to paint the colder northern light of Antwerp in a fauve style. But in this early work there is a sense of discomfort. Braque did not draw very well, and, as he lacked the graphic fluency of his mentors, his responses to fauvism were awkward and corseted...
...Squaw Valley, CA First Jack Riley 1956 Cortina, Italy Second John Mariucci 1952 Oslo, Norway Second Connie Pleban 1948 St. Moritz, Switz Fourth John Garrison 1936 Garmish, Germany Third Albert Prettyman 1932 Lake Placid, NY Second Alfred Winsor 1928 Not Represented 1924 Chamonix, France Second William Haddock 1920 Antwerp, Belgium (Unofficial) Second Ray Schooley
...Great Depression. The battle for business has severely corroded cargo-hauling rates and the values of ships. It costs only about $7 today to move a ton of grain from New Orleans to Amsterdam, in contrast to $17 in 1981. Says Fernand Suykens, director general of the port of Antwerp: "World shipping is very sick, and nobody knows when it's going to get any better...