Word: goin
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...Laurentiis and Goin cook for different audiences, but both use butter, oil, cheese and chocolate with profligacy. A signature De Laurentiis dish is a homey chicken Tetrazzini made with heavy cream and whole milk; Goin's book offers a tarte au fromage that contains a pound of ricotta inside an all-butter puff pastry, topped with not only lemon cream but also blueberry compote. There's something nearly carnal about all this full-fat food issuing from the kitchens of these gorgeous, tiny women. On a 2004 episode of Everyday Italian, De Laurentiis made two rich stuffed pastas as well...
Like De Laurentiis, Goin is a slight, lovely woman, although for foodies and fellow chefs, her most alluring feature may be her hands, which are muscular, perdurable, earthy--the hands of a woman who can butcher a side of pig as easily as she can pluck the leaves from a gossamer sprig of thyme. Recently Vogue called her "the culinary world's answer to Audrey Hepburn." I would say she's more Katharine Hepburn, but the point is that both chefs project a sense that you can have your cake and hide it too. But how? Do they...
...Goin can do it too. When we had dinner, she ate from the seven-course menu enthusiastically. But it was her first and only meal of the day. During a 5 1/2-hr. plane ride that day, she had consumed only nuts...
Paradoxically, De Laurentiis and Goin learned self-regulatory competence by exposing themselves to food all the time. If they were Mischel's kids, they would be sitting with the cookie in the room every day--and not just any cookie but one rich in fat and professionally baked to perfection. Actually, both chefs were once just like Mischel's weak-willed subjects. In Goin's first restaurant job, she would stand in the walk-in and eat so much ice cream with strawberries that she couldn't touch dinner. De Laurentiis was even worse. As a student at Le Cordon...
...experiments, Mischel suggested to kids that they pretend the cookie is just a picture of a cookie, not the real thing. Those kids were able to wait longer than the kids in control groups. (As one child said, "You can't eat a picture.") But De Laurentiis' and Goin's experiences suggest that we might try another strategy, one whose short-term risks may impart a long-term lesson: let your lizard brain eat all the cookies you want until you realize how awful you feel. De Laurentiis says she was "constantly sick" in Paris. Goin, who is often recognized...