Word: ghesquiã
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...best: At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesqui??re's cascading drapes and lace bras resurrected the decade's after-5 cocktail glamour...
...interest in fashion is bizarrely intense, so I don’t expect other people to like my views.” A varsity swimmer on top of his Project East responsibilities, Parent has also worked in the fashion world outside of college. His favorite designers include Nicolas Ghesqui??re for Balenciaga and Alber Elbaz of Lanvin. “Their stuff is really original while still being marketable,” he says. An internship in the buying department of fashion label Gucci proved unrewarding because it didn’t allow Parent to exercise his artistic inclinations...
...current shift back to black has none of the elements of the sloppy secondhand-Rose ethos of early 1990s' grunge. This time around, fashion's mood swing has a decidedly sharper edge, as designers like Nicolas Ghesqui??re of Balenciaga, Alber Elbaz of Lanvin and Narciso Rodriguez are trading in last season's brights for severe black cocktail dresses and structured suits. At Yves Saint Laurent, designer Stefano Pilati dressed his models in black bowl-cut wigs and black lipstick to give his simply spliced jackets and tunic dresses a somber, graphic edge. Even Christian Lacroix, famous for his flamboyant...
...calls this shift in sensibility a new minimalism. "The new pureness of lines centered on cut rather than decoration, the laser geometry of shapes and silhouettes are all maybe signs of a graphic protection linked unconsciously to recession, just like at the end of the '80s." Like Lacroix, Ghesqui??re was channeling a more austere sensibility in his Balenciaga collection, which, he said, was inspired by film noir, specifically the actress Simone Signoret's hard-edged look in the 1955 movie Les Diaboliques...
Some designers are using far-out technology to create limited-edition pieces that are almost as expensive as a work of art. Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesqui??re cut old-fashioned floral-printed radzimir, the heavy silk once used for mourning garments, with a laser and then bonded it with the flexible, breathable high-tech fabric commonly found in extreme-sports apparel. The dresses will retail for $7,000. At Roger Vivier, a pair of chiffon-and-leather sandals, braided and painted by hand, will ring in at $4,000--and only three pairs will be made. "Where is the luxury...