Word: bullying
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...collect art. In early July they traveled to this remote cove in northeastern Spain to visit the creator in his studio. They toured his inner sanctum in appreciative silence. They marveled at his unusual materials, his precise execution, his sheer ingenuity. And then, like everyone else at El Bulli, they sat down and ate the master's work...
...Bulli may be the most fussed-over restaurant in the world, its 33-course meals the object of countless gastronomic pilgrimages, its 8,000 reservations per season snapped up in a single day, its edible foams and spheres part of the current culinary vocabulary. But since its famous chef, Ferran Adrià, was named a featured artist in this year's edition of Documenta, the provocative contemporary-art show held every five years in Kassel, Germany, El Bulli has become the focus of a lively debate about the aesthetic value of avant-garde cuisine. Suddenly art critics and foodies alike...
...sniffed the great art critic Robert Hughes, adding that "food is food." Adrià counters that his critics don't understand what he does or his role in the art show. "My work is my menu," he says. "It wouldn't be respectful of art to try to bring El Bulli to Documenta." Instead, Documenta would come to El Bulli. For each of the 100 days of Documenta (it ends Sept. 23), Noack and director Roger Buergel select two people from the exhibit goers and fly them to dinner at Adrià's restaurant...
...course, Adrià's cooking isn't like anyone else's. He and his team spend six months of the year traveling and tasting, trying new ingredients, inventing new techniques. For the Flögels and El Bulli's 48 other customers that July night, the result of all that investigation and inspiration took the form of spherified olives that, when put in the mouth, exploded with a gush of intensely flavored olive oil. The liquid yolk of a quail's egg came wrapped in a hard, burnished shell tasting of candy. Citrus pulp turned into a tangy risotto...
...they hadn't been invited to El Bulli, the Flögels' dinner there would have set them back nearly $500. By the end of their meal, Franziska, an architect, and Gerhard, a civil engineer, had succumbed to Adrià's peculiar magic. "I was astonished the whole time I was eating," says Francisca. Her husband added: "This is a new way to create taste. When you're here, it's clear that it's art." Perhaps. But by the time Adrià's diners have worked their way through those 33 dishes, such abstract questions tend to fade into...